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Private Varanasi Tour: Sacred Light and Silk Threads

My post-river-cruise journey along the Ganga, from Kolkata to Varanasi, revealed a side of India that moves in slow motion, where faith, ecology, and the rhythms of daily life converge in ways that feel both eternal and immediate. The river is more than water; it is a living artery of culture, devotion, and imagination — one that shapes everyone who comes into contact with it.

Category

Tour

Words by

Mary Fares

Published

October 17, 2025

For those two days, my guide Dubey shared stories rooted in his own childhood. “My father used to take me to the banks of the Ganga every morning for puja,” he told me, eyes distant in memory. “As he prayed to Goddess Ganges, I would watch — and feel — the river’s moods: calm, anxious, joyful. Even as a child, it left an indelible mark on how I saw the world.” Chasing this faith became a central thread of my journey.
My two days in Varanasi were truly special, revealing the city in all its sacred, sensory, and soulful dimensions. Here’s a list of experiences I would recommend, without a moment’s hesitation:

Charms of Banaras Ghats

Walking along the ghats, I encountered life at its most honest. With children learning to swim, boatmen ferrying passengers, women performing daily ablutions, and pilgrims immersed in silent reflection, I could feel every step, every sight, bringing the city’s timelessness into sharp focus.
At dawn on the ghats of Varanasi, a man washes vibrant orange robes, blending ritual with the river’s quiet rhythm.

Temples and More Temples. In every nook and alley, temples rise, ornate, intimate, and alive. Some are bustling with worshippers, others tucked away like secrets. Each offers a unique glimpse of devotion that has endured for centuries.

The Musical Gharanas

Varanasi’s soundscape is inseparable from its soul. I could feel the influence of centuries-old musical gharanas, including the Banaras Gharana, Ramnagar Gharana, and Senia Gharana, whose ragas echoed off temple walls, drawing the past into the present. Legendary artists like Pandit Ravi Shankar, Girija Devi, and Kishan Maharaj have carried this city’s music to the world. Here, you find music is not mere performance but intertwined with prayers, meditation, and memory.

Chasing the Faith

From the early morning pujas to the evening aarti, the rituals at every ghat are immersive and profound. I lingered at steps worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims, taking in the rhythm of chants, the curl of incense smoke, and the flicker of lamps reflected on the water. Here, devotion is tangible, moving in pair with the river itself.
The bylanes brim with life, full of temples, people, and daily rituals weaving together the city’s vibrant and timeless culture.
During the Varanasi evening aarti, secure the best spot and let the ritual sweep you in, as if you are part of its sacred rhythm.
As dusk fell, I arrived at Dashashwamedh Ghat, where the evening Ganga Aarti began like an elegant dance. The young priests, dressed in saffron and gold, moved in perfect rhythm, their brass lamps tracing arcs of fire that echoed the setting sun. The air was filled with the sounds of conch shells, bells, and chants, while the scent of sandalwood and marigolds floated over the river.

Boats stand quietly, passengers watching in awe as light reflected on the water and devotion filled the air. In that golden glow, the Ganges seemed to breathe, alive with centuries of faith and prayer.

Banaras Hindu University

Founded in 1916, BHU is one of India’s largest and most prestigious residential universities. Spanning over 1,350 acres, the campus is a blend of sprawling lawns, lush gardens, and architectural landmarks, creating a serene environment for learning.
A walk through the campus reveals its academic and cultural richness. Don’t miss the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum, which houses over 100,000 artefacts, including paintings, sculptures, archaeological finds, rare coins, and manuscripts. One gallery, “Banaras Through the Ages,” traces the city’s evolution, offering a glimpse into its spiritual, cultural, and historical significance. The university itself is a living testament to Banaras’s enduring legacy as a centre of education, art, and culture. One of the art students volunteered to guide me through the vibrant streets, sharing tales of craft, commerce, and survival.

James Prinsep's Banaras

Two hundred years ago, James Prinsep devoted a decade to studying and documenting Banaras, its architecture, rituals, and people. Reflecting on the city’s spiritual essence, he famously wrote, “In Benares there is a sacred place at every step.”

This sentiment underscores the city's deep spiritual fabric, where every corner holds a story of devotion and history. Prinsep's work continues to inspire those who seek to understand and appreciate the richness of Varanasi's heritage. His dedication to capturing the essence of the city is evident in his lithographs and writings.

James Prinsep’s work capturing the timeless charm and intricate details of the city he once studied.
You’re welcomed like royalty at Nadesar Palace, arriving by horse carriage, greeted with garlands and a refreshing thandai.

Stay at Nadesar Palace

My nights were spent in understated luxury at Nadesar Palace, a historic gem once the residence of the Maharaja of Nadesar. Built in the 19th century, the palace exudes colonial-era grandeur with elegant architecture, high ceilings, and spacious verandas, while seamlessly blending modern comforts. Staying here is akin to living in a private museum where each corner tells a story of royalty, heritage, and timeless Banarasi charm.
The service mirrors the impeccable standards of Taj Hotels, with staff anticipating every need from arranging bespoke yoga sessions to personalised meals. Private verandas overlook lush gardens, offering serene morning views, while candlelit dinners feature authentic local flavours and contemporary twists.

Travelling upstream on the Ganga, I had thought I had already seen enough of the river's charm. But these two days in Varanasi, exploring some of the city's finest galleries, meeting spiritual leaders, and listening to master musicians revealed layers I hadn't imagined. Every corner seemed to hold a story, every ritual a rhythm of life, and I realised that one visit is never enough. I left feeling a deep pull to return, knowing that the city still has much more to teach me.

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